Kyrgyzstan quick tips 吉爾吉斯懶人包

Accommodation:
– Bishkek -> Friends guest house (Moskovskaya 250, 720040 Bishkek)
the owner is super nice and helpful, room is clean, near Osh Bazaar
– Karakol -> Bed & Breakfast Nice (Abdrahmanov Street 81a, 722200 Karakol)
the owner speaks great English, the room is the most modern and clean ever
住宿推薦:
– Bishkek -> Friends guest house (Moskovskaya 250, 720040 Bishkek)
老闆人超級好又很幫忙,大的房間滿舒適的,靠近 Osh Bazaar
– Karakol -> Bed & Breakfast Nice (Abdrahmanov Street 81a, 722200 Karakol)
老闆人好英文也好,房間裝飾很現代,是我住過最舒服乾淨的地方

Sim card:
very cheap, can try Beeline, internet need to top up every week
電話卡超級便宜,可以用Beeline,網路需要每週加值

簽證:
我們是找Stantour辦邀請函,帶著邀請函和2吋照片,到了機場直接可辦理落地簽

Restaurant recommendation:
 – Bishkek -> Furusato: the best japanese food ever, great quality and service
– Karakol -> Cafe Kench: near B&B Nice, the nasi goreng and pasta is great
餐廳推薦:
– Bishkek -> Furusato: 超好吃又新鮮的日本料理,老闆人非常熱情,必去!
– Karakol -> Cafe Kench: 義大利麵和Nasi Goreng超好吃

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Furusato

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Cafe Kench

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吉爾吉斯不可或缺的小人物 – 馬蘇卡司機大叔

如果你要去任何一個前蘇聯國家,馬蘇卡 (marshrutka) 這個單字非學不可! 它不僅是最便宜,也是市區內和長途旅行最方便的交通工具。這種改裝過的廂型車的副駕駛座可以坐兩個人,後面則是不同形式的多排座椅,有些是左2右1留下中間走道,有些則是平常可見的3排座位,無論如何都是盡量將座位排到最多,所以後面放行李的地方有時候比一般轎車還窄小。雖然如此,許多乘客還是大包小包的來搭車,後車箱放滿了,司機就開始往大家的腳下塞,雖然腳沒辦法伸直了,但每個人都能互相體諒。

車門是另一個改造重點,駕駛座除外,通常只有副駕駛座的門可以打開,其他的都被鎖住了,剛開始不懂我還拼命拉後面的車門,後來才知道大家都要從副駕駛座鑽進去,帶著小孩的媽媽還得把嬰兒先給陌生人抱著才能鑽進去。不過我最不能理解的還是”沒有窗戶”這件事,也就是說後座的窗戶全部都不能打開,只留了一個車頂的天窗,車子行進間有風還好,若是夏天車子停住,那真的是很悶啊!!

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在大城市,馬蘇卡則成了市區內的小巴士,每台車有固定的路線,但是最令我大開眼界的是: 只要在它的路線上,任何人都可以隨時攔車上來或是要求停車,這簡直是另類計程車!! 有時候車子在等紅綠燈,也會有人衝過來,因為副駕駛座的門沒人管,所以完全不能限制任何想拉車門上來的人啊!! 除了停停走走以外,它確實是一個方便又便宜的交通工具。img_0094img_7017-%e8%a4%87%e8%a3%bd

至於搭長途的馬蘇卡就更多故事了! 這個小巴士扮演著比通勤工具更重要的角色。印象最深的是從吉爾吉斯南部的Arslanbob到Osh的三小時車程,不斷的有當地居民,有的一個人,有的是媽媽帶著孩子,從一個村莊搭到另一個村莊,有些剛採買完提著幾個塑膠袋,有些是去接剛下課的孩子。車子停停走走我已經習以為常,忽然之間車子又停了,一個老婦女攔了車,跑到司機的窗前,對著他說了幾句話,把一封信遞給他,就這麼走了。我正納悶著這婦人怎麼不上車,看著司機把那封信收進袋子裡,才恍然大悟: 原來是幫忙送信啊! 過一會兒攔車的是一個中年女子,她上車以後指揮著司機停在一家小商店前,看著他們下車走進商店,不久後搬出五個不知道裝些甚麼的白布袋,塞滿整個走道! (就是下面這張照片) 其他人不僅不覺得煩,還笑開懷的和司機討論著。結果那女子付了點錢就走了,什麼?! 這是把小巴當成貨運公司嗎? 開了一陣子司機再度靠邊停,我探了頭卻沒看到有人攔車,司機按了幾聲喇叭,對面房子裡走出了一個穿著整齊的男子,帶著小公事包上了車,和司機有說有笑,看了是每天都搭這班車的常客啊!

終於到達目的地了,司機趕忙跑上來把這幾個白布袋都搬走,乘客也陸續下車,從司機手上拿了後座的行李,說了聲謝謝! 但我其實更想說您辛苦了,這年頭兼職郵差和送貨員的司機大叔還真不多見,雖然這些異想不到的乘客需求讓旅途的時間增長,卻也讓這台馬蘇卡充滿了溫暖,更讓我感受到馬蘇卡司機真正的角色原來是全村人的家人。

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Arslanbob – the biggest walnut forest in the world 全世界最大的核桃森林就在吉爾吉斯

It is unfortunate that there is no transportation between Song Kul and Arslanbob/Osh. We tried to ask a few agency and the price is crazy to hire a private car due to the bad road condition. We had to go back to Bishkek again.. When you are on the main street in Kochkor, there will be many drivers asking if you are going to Bishkek, so we found a seat easily with the price of 500 som.

因為從頌湖到Arslanbob/Osh的路況不好, 沒有大眾交通工具, 計程車又開了天價, 所以我們只好回Bishkek休息再出發. 從Kochkor回Bishkek的車子很好找, 除了小巴, 站在主街上都有人問你要不要去Bishkek, 我們搭了一台計程車,  一個位子是500.

It is the longest journey from Bishkek to Arslanbob – 10 hours. We only had a quick 20 min lunch break and drove non stop to the destination. Our driver is a super young 21 year old boy and he drove super fast with very loud pop music. The view on the way is fantastic, especially it snows a bit and one part of the road and mountain was full of snow. The CBT office in Arslanbob is super small without a sign. There are many homestay there, with different distance from city and language ability. We chose the one closest to center with lovely garden. The room is nice, but the bathroom and toilet are outside. The days we were in Arslanbob were soooo cold that we decided to leave earlier to Osh.

從Bishkek 到 Arslanbob 是會暈車的我最大的挑戰,因為有將近十小時的車程。我們的司機是一個21歲的年輕小伙子,從頭到尾開車時速不低於80公里,還把收音機的搖滾樂開到最大聲,整個車子都在震動,只要音樂一旦不夠嗨,他就立刻轉換頻道,我們就在夜店的環境中以最快速度抵達目的地。中途的風景好美麗,尤其是有一段山路下雪了,整個禿禿的山就像是撒上糖粉一樣,好像巧克力蛋糕!

Arslanbob的CBT辦公室甚麼招牌都沒有 (左下圖),這裡很多間homestay,工作人員介紹了每間的環境、距離市中心的地點、會不會講英文等等,我們選了距離市中心最近的一間,有一個美麗的花園 (右下圖),房間滿溫馨的,只是廁所和洗澡都要跑到外面,我們待的時間都在下雨又好冷,所以比較不方便。對了! 這個村莊是完全沒有wifi的喔!

The city center in Arslanbob is really small and there is a very famous cafe just next to the mosque. Almost all local go there during lunch time and the food was great and cheap! Don’t forget to try the BBQ there, it’s delicious! We hired a CBT guide to take us to the walnut forest with the price of 900 som.

說是市中心呢,其實只是一個十字路口加上幾間商店,這裡是一個很小的村莊,當地人推薦了在清真寺旁邊的小吃店吃午餐,果然好吃又便宜 (必吃BBQ),中午的時候幾乎客滿。這裡的餐廳只有中午營業,晚上所有人都會在家裡吃,也因此我們必須要跟民宿訂晚餐,要不然絕對餓肚子! 這邊有幾個健行步道可以走,我們請了一個CBT導遊帶我們逛核桃森林,價錢是900 som.

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Be the Nomads in Song Kul 在吉爾吉斯的頌湖當兩天的遊牧民族

It was a short ride from Karakol to Kochkor via marshrutka, around 3 hours. Kochkor is a really small city, with only a few cafe and shops. After we arrived, we directly went to CBT to look for homestay. Both CBT and Shephered’s Life are close to the bus station, around 2 min walk. CBT homestay is around 500 – 700 som per person depends on the distance to city center. We chose the nearest homestay and the room is warm and nice with the bathroom inside the house. CBT can also help to arrange a car to Song Kul and yurt accommodation. The yurt is 500 som per person, excluding lunch and dinner. The car to Song Kul cost around 1,000 som but it’s too expensive if the driver stay one night with us and take us down the next day, so we decided to find a car around Song Kul the next day.

從Karakol 到 Kochkor 搭乘小巴大概需要三小時,Kochkor 真的是超小的小鎮,而且我們到的時候一直下雨,又凍又冷! 一下小巴我們就直奔CBT 找住宿,CBT 和 Shephere’s Life 都在公車站的附近,非常方便! CBT Homestay 價位都在500-700之間,我們選了一個最近的,另外請他安排明天到頌湖的蒙古包住宿和車,住宿一人500 餐費另計,一趟車上去1,000 但如果要包司機兩天費用太高,我們決定到時候再想辦法下山。

It is estimated to be a 3 hours drive from Kochkor to Song Kul, but our driver was really good and we arrived within 2 hours! On our way up, we saw many horses, sheep, cows. The view was nice and we felt excited when we finally see the lake in front of us. There were many yurts around the lake and the driver dropped us in one of them and left. We had a walk around the lake in the morning and the weather was pretty good.

3個小時上山的車程我們的司機兩小時就把我們載到了! 路上看到好多馬牛羊在吃草,風景很美,終於看到湖的那一瞬間尤其興奮。司機把我們再到其中一個蒙古包旁邊就開走了。沒想到我們不到十一點就到了,所以就趁著早上天氣好在附近散步欣賞風景。

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Trekking to Altyn Arashan 阿爾泰山健行 – 最艱難的7小時

One of the most popular to do lists near Karakol is to visit the trekking route to Altyn Arashan. There is a village in the mountain at around altitude of 2300 meters and it is also famous for its hot spring! It is 14 km trekking up to the village, so usually people will stay in the guest house or yurt in the village and come back the next day. If you are advanced mountain climber, you can do 3 day trekking and visit the beautiful Ala kul. Unfortunately we are at beginner level, so we had a two day trekking to Altyn Arashan which becomes the most difficult tour during my visit in the country.

大部分來到Karakol的遊客都是為了欣賞Altyn Arashan的美景,它位在2300公尺高山上的一個小村莊,要看到它還不容易,需要辛苦的爬14公里的山,歷經6-7小時才得以相見!! 通常都是安排2天1夜的行程,晚上可以住在村莊裡的民宿或是蒙古包。厲害的登山客如果有自備帳篷,可以選擇3天2夜,爬上更高的Ala Kul 欣賞美麗的湖泊。我們當然不可能爬三天啦! 而且大家都說爬上那個湖滿辛苦的,如果只是到村莊的話非常簡單,所以我們準備好簡單午餐、水和糧食就出發了! 沒想到… 這竟是我在吉爾吉斯最苦的一段旅程~~~~

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小巴士停的站,從這裡往前就可以開始爬山囉! The start point to Altyn Arashan

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Around Karakol – Issyk Kul & Jeti Oguz 吉爾吉斯美麗的伊賽克湖

We are here in Kyrgyzstan, the country famous for its natural scenery.

We didn’t plan to stay in Bishkek (the capital) for many days, so after we completed the “registration”, we directly headed to Karakol by marshrutka (mini bus). The registration process is only for some countries, which of course Taiwan is included. It’s a long story about this registration but I will just skip it for now.

The trip from Bishkek to Karakol is around 5 – 6 hours, and we passed the north side of Issyk Kul. This lake is so big that it can be seen for more than 2 hours drive! We hired a taxi the next day to visit this never frozen lake.

吉爾吉斯,李白的故鄉。我們來拜訪它的壯麗山水。

我們沒有刻意在首都比十凱克停留,主要只是要完成住宿註冊。之前有些人說不需要做住宿登記,而且網路上也沒甚麼資訊,又有人說若是從機場出境一定會查,沒有的話會被罰款,因此我們決定先去發給我們邀請函的旅行社詢問,結果她馬上說需要註冊,但給他們辦要第二天才能拿,所以她給了我們辦理這個業務的機關住址,說我們自己過去的話當天可以拿到。好不容易找到了這個passport office,難得有一個稍微會說英文的先生,他卻說我們入境的邀請函不合格,需要重新準備一份,他提出了三四個問題,我們聽不大懂,好險他好心的幫我們直接打給旅行社告知,我們又趕快回去旅行社拿新的邀請函,第二天一早趕過去辦理,終於等到他在我們的護照上蓋了章,才安心的趕往Karakol。

從比十凱克坐小巴到Karakol大約是5-6小時,我們開過伊賽克湖的北邊,終於看到遠方右邊一條細細的藍線時感到很興奮! 我們第二天就請了計程車司機帶我們近距離欣賞這個美麗的高山湖。

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