死海+佩特拉古城+沙漠=約旦三個願望一次滿足之旅 Dead Sea+Petra+Desert = Jordan the dream come true trip

約旦一直是我心中的夢幻國度 (雖然心中的夢幻國度根本超多個… ),這次有機會來當然要把想去的地方一次走遍! 這個國家大部分的土地都是極乾燥酷熱的沙漠地形,但是卻擁有全世界嚮往的死海和佩特拉古城,我們從以色列的南部 Eilat 跨境來到約旦的 Aqaba,開始了五天的奇幻旅程。

Jordan has always been on my top list (though I got a long top list…), and since I finally have the chance to visit here, of course I must go to every place that I’ve dreamed of. This country has one of the driest and toughest land on earth, but it also has one of the most dreamed place on earth, Dead sea and Petra! We started our 5 day trip from Aqaba, the southern most city in Jordan.

Route 路線: (A) Aqaba -> (B) Wadi Rum 沙漠 -> (C) Petra 佩特拉古城 -> (D) Dead Sea 死海

Aqaba 是南部離邊境最近的城鎮,緊鄰以色列和紅海,當地並沒有特別的景點,大部分是旅人的休息站,我們住了一個老舊的飯店,難得房間竟然有很好的風景,可以眺望美麗的清真寺、一點都不紅的紅海、右方的以色列和左方遙遠的埃及。

Aqaba is just next to Israel and Red Sea. It has no special site for tourist but a place to rest near the border. We stayed in an old hotel, and was surprised by the room they gave us – a beautiful mosque, Red Sea, Israel and Egypt are all just in front of our balcony!

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Aqaba city view

登陸火星 – 瓦地倫沙漠 Wadi Rum

有聽過老電影”阿拉伯的勞倫斯”嗎? 或是這幾年有名的”普羅米修斯”和”火星任務”? 距離 Aqaba 一小時車程的 Wadi Rum 沙漠正是火星和外太空相關電影的熱門拍攝地點喔! 就算是如火星般的極地氣候,約旦的遊牧民族還是克服了艱苦的環境在此生活了好幾千年,現在住在沙漠的這群人叫做貝度因人,如今這裡因為奇異多變的地形而成了旅遊勝地。我們報名了一個兩天一夜的沙漠團,帶我們參觀附近的景點並入住沙漠中的帳篷。

Have you heard about the movie “Lawrence of Arabia”? or the latest ones like “Prometheus” or “The Martian”? These and many more were filmed in Wadi Rum because it looks like Mars. Even though this is an extreme environment, people still have been living here for thousands of years. They are called the Bedouins. This is also the biggest wadi in Jordan and has become famous because of its amazing rocks. We joined a two day one night group to see the views around here and stay one night in the desert.

跟我們同團的有三個搞笑的法國人,導遊是一個話不多的20歲貝度因青年,一整天載著我們大概抽了一包多的菸,而且是少數沒有參與齋戒月而跟著我們吃吃喝喝的人..哈哈! 其中2個法國女生則是我遇過最猛的人,什麼岩石都爬,而且光著腳爬好快,連導遊說危險、男人們也爬不上去的岩石他們都成功了,還嘗試在沙漠裡開吉普車,然後一直學駱駝叫,實在讓我們笑瘋了! 中午導遊在沙漠中厲害的生出了午餐給我們,法國人則當起環保尖兵瘋狂撿沙漠中的垃圾撿到垃圾袋不夠用 XD 一天就這樣歡笑的走了好多景點,直到七點多才抵達帳篷營地,總共看了三個橋、一個山泉、兩個峽谷、兩個沙丘和超美的夕陽,彌補了我們在撒哈拉沙漠沒看到日落的遺憾,接下來就用照片來介紹瓦地倫的美麗吧! (因為話少的導遊真的沒說啥啊!!)

There were three other interesting French in our group. The young guide is a Bedouin who didn’t speak much, and were the few that didn’t follow Ramadan haha! The two French girls are great climbers and I really didn’t expect so many climbing during the tour, and difficult ones!! We went to many places, 3 bridges, 2 canyons, two sand dunes and a beautiful sunset. I will show the beauty by some photos!

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Wadi Rum Village 瓦地倫沙漠的小村落

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Skinny Camels in Jordan 約旦的駱駝都好瘦喔!

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喝點茶休息一下

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Sandboarding in noon time is definitely not a good idea – burning and super slow 正中午在沙丘滑沙超燙速度也超慢

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colorful sand 彩色的沙以及超小的駱駝隊伍

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Powerful French climber 勇猛的法國女攀岩, 男性爬了兩步只說”不值得”就放棄了

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ancient painting on the rock 古老的壁畫

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canyon 峽谷

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A tree!! 沙漠裡也有樹!

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It’s cloudy!! 一朵雲天啊!

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First bridge 第一座橋

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Ancient house 古人蓋的房子

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amazing mushroom 蘑菇!!!

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Second bridge 第二座橋超小要仔細看畫面中間

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Second canyon 峽谷二號

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Third bridge 第三座橋, 真的很高吧!!

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our guide suddenly decided to drive like this 導遊突然站到外面開車…

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beautiful sunset 日落時分

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Sunset 美麗的日落

一整天在外面奔波真的好熱,除了全身都是沙子,很多地方還必須要攀岩,而且是難度不簡單的那種,尤其是要爬上那些橋照相,我一度懷疑被整了,這根本是攀岩團吧!! 但是一望無際的沙漠和岩石真的難以用照片形容它的美,你們有覺得這裡像火星嗎?

晚上廚師準備了當地的控窯 (把蔬菜和雞肉放在挖出的地洞裡烤,再用毛毯蓋起來),之後還有營火晚會,和當地音樂表演,突然間我竟然聽到”兩隻老虎”的阿拉伯版本!!! 太酷了~~

It was a hot day and in the end, we were almost covered by sand! The scenery is difficult to describe even by photos, so do you think it looks like Mars? In the evening, we had some local food and local music, it was just peaceful and perfect!

走進佩特拉古城 Inside Petra

佩特拉古城是此行的重點,這幾天遇到的旅人都跟我們說要做好走十小時左右的心理準備,我們買好第二天的午餐就早早入睡準備好好來走一遭這個世界七大奇景之一的古城。關於佩特拉的很多歷史到現在依然成謎,像是建造的時期,不過考古學家認為它在成為納巴特人 (Nabataeans) 的首都之時開始繁榮,當時大約是西元前1世紀,至今也超過2千年了,這裡也是過去連結美索不達米亞和埃及的重要貿易路線,後來被羅馬帝國征服之後成為他們的一個省份,在3世紀時,因為貿易路線的改變和一個大地震,佩特拉漸漸地衰落最終荒廢。

Petra, a city where many things are still unknown, like when it was built. Mostly it is believed that the city began to prosper after it became the capital of Nabataeans, which is around 1st Century BC. After the Roman Empire conquered here, it became one of their provinces. In about 3rd century, due to the change of trade route and earthquake, Petra was gradually deserted.

據說約旦的遊牧民族一直都知道佩特拉古城的存在,但不願公布於世。一直到1812年一個瑞士探險家 Johannes Burckhardt 喬裝成虔誠的阿拉伯人,拜託當地的貝度因人帶他去古城朝聖,這裡才正式曝光,成為今日約旦最重要的觀光景點。

The locals in Petra have always known the city, but wanted to keep it as a secret. Until 1812 there was this Swiss explorer Johannes Burckhardt who pretended to be an Arab and convinced his local guide to take him to Petra thus the city is revealed to the world.

佩特拉也被稱作玫瑰城市,因為這裡的岩石擁有多彩又多變的顏色和曲線,像是粉紅、紅、黃、白、黑等等。這座古城除了著名的卡茲尼神殿,還有劇院、修道院、住宅區和墓穴等等,其實就是一個五臟俱全的城市。受到羅馬人的影響,這裡也有許多羅馬式風格的建築,不過最令人驚豔的還是所有建築幾乎都是從岩石往內雕刻出來的,十足是偉大的人類創作啊!

Petra is also called the rose-red city, because of its beautiful color of rocks. Besides the most well known “treasury”, it also has theater, residential area, monastery, tombs… and the architecture is influenced by Romans. Most of the structures here are carved from the Rock itself which makes it an amazing human work.

在購票處旁邊有一個博物館,建議先進去參觀,可以對整個遺跡有一些概念。從入口走進去會先看到右方有三個大型的方形紀念碑 (Djin Blocks) 如下圖左,左前方則有一個墓穴,裡面埋葬了5個人 (Snake Tomb/Obelisk Tomb)。

I would suggest to visit the museum next to the ticket office first so that you can have an overview of the city. Then from the entrance, you can first see the Djin Blocks and the Snake Tomb.

再走一陣子就會來到蛇道入口 (The Siq),這個1.5公里的峽谷通道造型多變,除了岩石的顏色,它本身的曲線變化也是令人嘆為觀止,兩旁有人工鑿的水道,因為這裡深受洪水之苦,所以當時人們就已經想到這種疏洪方式, 路上還可以看到過去羅馬人重建的石子路和一些雕刻等。

After a while you can reach the Sig, 1.5km canyon way is beautiful. You can see the paved road from Roman period, sacred stones, and water tunnels.

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疏洪水道

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看到神殿啦

卡茲尼神殿 The Treasury (Al Khazna) 據說是個皇家墓,因為還有太多未知,我們就只要好好欣賞它的美啦! 這是所有古城內最精美的建築,很多細節和浮雕都還可以看得到,據說埃及人在去以色列的路上把寶藏都藏在這裡,所以當地人認為神殿上面的子彈痕是想搶奪的人射的,也因此他們把這裡稱作”寶藏”。

The treasury is believed to be a royal tomb. It is the most beautiful architecture in Petra.

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下面用照片繼續介紹其他景點
Below introducing some sights by photos

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Street of Facades 一排墓穴

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Residential Area 住宅區

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The Theater 世界上唯一將岩石往內刻成的劇院, 可容納3000人

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Royal Tombs 皇家墓穴

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Inside Royal Tombs 皇家墓穴內部, 岩石變化超美

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Royal Tombs 皇家墓穴

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其中最愛皇家墓穴之一 Silk Tomb 的岩石紋路

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Urn Tomb 皇家墓穴之一

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The Colonnaded Street 羅馬時期的購物街道

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On the way to Ad Deir Monastery 前往修道院的路

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先經過 The Lion Triclinium 因為入口的兩個獅子浮雕

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Ad Deir (Monastery) 美麗的修道院

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Great Temple

為了遠眺神殿的風景,我們走上了皇家墓穴左方的Al Khubtha 步道,一路往上爬好不容易到頂端,最美的風景竟然被當地人蓋了個茶屋擋住,我們為了入內只好買了一杯JD1的熱茶,老闆說他和朋友就住在附近的洞穴裡,大部分的居民都移到旁邊的小村莊了。

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有時候我也不知道觀光對一個國家的發展究竟是好是壞,像是在佩特拉裡這位佔據最佳風景點的茶屋老闆,一看到我們就超熱情的邀請我們進來,又搶著幫我們拍照,直到我們終於點了一杯茶,他訝異的說只要一杯,接著拿茶給我的時候超大聲嘆氣 “哀~~~” 拿完錢就不怎麼跟我們講話了。更不用說在整個古城騎著馬和驢子的男性和小孩,有些瘋狂的纏著觀光客不放,先說坐馬車免費,等到下車就兇惡的要小費,或有時候走一走就被小朋友拿著明信片用力拍打身體吼著1JD,在紀念品攤販的女性則是先問你要不要買,若你說Later就中計了! 我們親眼看到一個西方女子從我們面前走來,攤販的婦女大老遠就吼著: “小姐! 你說Later,我等你很久了,你是個誠實的人,你答應我的,快點進來逛! ” 最看不慣的還是那些應該要在學校的小孩,全都在瘋狂虐待鞭打驢子裝酷,找客人。我相信這些當地人都是善良的,或許是政府對他們真的不好,或是觀光客把他們寵壞了,讓他們想到各式各樣的方式賺錢,讓我們看不到他們的純樸與善良,也讓佩特拉古城因此減了幾分。

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躺在死海上 Dead Sea

來到死海的飯店,興奮得等到四點多沒那麼熱的時候走到沙灘準備體驗漂浮! 飯店圍了一塊區域可以漂浮,還有救生員隨時準備救援。因為鹽度的關係,下面的岩石都結晶了非常刺腳,幾乎難以前進,一開始有點害怕不敢躺,有點不相信真的可以浮起來,沒想到一躺下去真的就這樣飄起來了,而且想起身還有點難呢! 和剛認識的台灣朋友帶著道具玩了很久,沒想到竟然只有我們帶道具!!! 死海的水又臭又油,漂浮的時候還得注意臉不要弄到水,所以不是想像中的輕鬆,旁邊還有死海泥可以去角質,偷吃一口死海的水真的超鹹超苦!!! 不知不覺竟然玩了一個多小時,泡了死海水再曬太陽皮膚還真有點痛耶! 能夠完成夢想飄在死海上真的是太不真實了!

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約旦之旅很快地就告一段落,去了美麗的火星沙漠、傳說中的佩特拉古城、和漂浮在夢幻死海,真是一次完成了好多願望! 剛好進約旦的時候正是回教齋戒月的開始,我們有幾天的中午都找不到東西吃,跟著回教徒一起挨餓到晚上 XD 他們從早上四點到晚上七點半都不能吃東西和喝水,一直到日落時清真寺的晚禱聲響起才可以吃飯,雖然齋戒月造成一些旅遊上的不方便,但我們也因此看到很多奇異的現象。白天大家都死氣沉沉,打掃房間的員工用不能再更慢的速度拿床單、佩特拉古城的茶屋老闆的朋友躺在一旁痛苦的一動也不動、最佩服沙漠的導遊還可以帶團、很多商店裡都找不到人、很多人懶得講話,而到了晚上,有些人已經坐在餐廳裡點好餐,晚禱聲一響起馬上開動狂吃,商店的人有些去清真寺有些去吃飯還是都不在店裡、吃飽飯的城市像是活了起來,每個人都有了笑容充滿活力,甚至還有人晚上開始做工地工程,也有人整晚不睡覺都在吃東西吃到四點,去做卡達航空也因為齋戒月而會詢問你要不要吃飯,不吃的提供餐盒,清真寺的晚禱聲也比平常久,可以持續一個小時! 當地人說大概12歲的孩子就要開始在齋戒月練習幾個小時不吃不喝,我們難以想像在這麼炎熱的地區還要整天不吃不喝又得工作是怎麼樣的痛苦,只能真心佩服這些遵守並實行齋戒月的這些回教徒。

旅遊實用資訊 (2017年6月)

  • 約旦簽證: 買Jordan Pass最划算, 依據在Petra探索天數的不同, 分別是JD70,75,80(1天,2天, 3天), 必須在約旦停留三晚才能使用, 注意只能在機場, 南邊Aqaba關口還有北邊關口入境。
  • 交通: 幾乎沒有什麼大眾運輸工具, 計程車特別惡名昭彰, 在此分享價格和經驗
    – 從以色列Eilat過海關到約旦Aqaba之後要搭計程車到市區, 這裡的計程車超級邪惡! 公定價應該是JD10, 但他們一開價就JD15, 我們拒絕後其中一人就吼說那你們睡這吧!! 我們繼續站在那裏等, 其中一個掮客又跑過來降價成JD12, 我們還是拒絕, 另一個司機衝過來罵他降價, 後來又有一個人說JD11, 結果他們自己吵起來, 我們決定走出去找其他計程車, 掮客急了馬上過來說JD10可以, 我們才坐上車, 態度超差超討厭的!
    – Aqaba 到 Wadi Rum 一小時車程約JD20-25
    – Wadi Rum 到 Petra 有小巴, 一人JD7, 但我們坐的那天硬是被收JD8超不爽!
    – Petra 到死海三小時只能坐計程車, 價錢約JD55-65看殺價功力。不過從死海反過來到Petra的計程車因為都是高級飯店安排的, 竟然要JD100!!
    – 死海到機場或首都的計程車約JD35
  • 住宿:
    -Aqaba: Amer 1 Hotel 老闆人很好, 有電梯, 地點好, 房間乾淨有好風景, 旁邊就有好餐廳
    -Petra Wadi Musa: Peace way Hotel 櫃台臉很臭但服務還OK, 有早餐, 房間不錯且乾淨, 坐計程車去古城 JD2, 附近有兩間不錯餐廳
    -Dead Sea: Crowne Plaza Hotel 環境, 房間和早餐都很不錯
  • 餐廳:
    – Aqaba: Syrian Palace 我們點了約旦名菜 mansaf, 可選雞肉或羊肉配飯, 淋上羊肉優格, 一開始覺得味道有點重, 但後來越吃越好吃!
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  • 沙漠團: Bedouin Lifestyle Camp 兩天一夜包三餐是一人 JD65, 早上十點出發, 中午導遊在野外煮中餐, 七點多到營地, 晚餐是buffet滿好吃的, 還有小小營火晚會, 有雙人房跟單人房帳篷, 有水泥建築的浴室和廁所。
  • 佩特拉古城: 建議越早去越好, 比較不熱也可以避開團客. 我們從8:30走到下午6點全程走路都沒坐馬或驢, 腳程不好的話就坐一段, 但務必殺價! 我們一路走到皇家墓穴就先從左邊走上 Al Khubtha 步道欣賞神殿風景, 因為早上的陽光是撒在神殿上的。接著才繼續走到修道院, 下午陽光灑在修道院和皇家墓穴。High Place of Sacrifice Trail 也是很多人走, 但是一天實在無法走這麼多, 大家可以先查資料看看自己想走哪邊, 一定得取捨然後要衡量走回入口的時間。
  • 回教國家的休息日是星期五, 安排行程時要特別注意。
  • 郵票: 一張JD 0.9, 郵局營業時間不明XD
  • 約旦的物價真是超級貴, 尤其是計程車, 因為他們沒有石油, 司機說計程車執照要十萬JD!! 而且他們的幣值比英鎊還高, 實在難以理解。旅遊大致上滿安全的, 只是我們感覺人民沒有特別友善, 不知道是不是齋戒月, 或是我們剛好遇到的人, 覺得除了景點好之外, 其他有點令人失望。

Useful Travel Information (Jun 2017)

  • Visa: It’s better to use Jordan Pass if you stay for more than 3 nights, and you can use it only when you enter from the airport, South border Aqaba and North border. The price differ depends on how many days you want to visit Petra. 1 day -> JD 70, 2 days -> JD  75, 3 days -> JD 80.
  • Transportation: public transportation not so common, beware of the taxi fare
    – from Eilat Israel to Aqaba Jordan: the taxi drivers are very evil outside of Aqaba border. Reasonable price from border to city center should be JD 10, but they will ask for JD 15 at first, and when we refused, they immediately shouted at ask: “you can sleep here!!” Super rude and always fighting between themselves. Later they came to us again asking for JD 12..JD 11, we still refused and decided to walk. They got panic and agreed with JD 10.
    – Aqaba to Wadi rum: JD 20-25 one hour ride
    – Wadi Rum to Petra, finally a small bus and price is JD7
    – Petra to Dead Sea: only taxi, price JD 55-65 depends on how you negociate. however, from Dead Sea to Petra cost you JD 100 because it’s arranged by hotels.
    – Dead Sea to airport or capital: JD35
  • Accommodation:
    – Aqaba: Amer 1 Hotel, the owner is very nice, good location with lift, clean room with good view. Nice restaurant next door.
    – Petra Wadi Musa: Peace Way Hotel, receptionist not so friendly but ok, breakfast, nice room and clean, taxi to Petra cost JD 2.
    – Dead Sea: Crowne Plaza Hotel, everything pretty good.
  • Restaurant:
    – Aqaba: Syrian Palace, we ordered the famous mansaf, you can choose chicken or lamb, it serves with lamb yogurt, it’s really good!
  • Desert tour: Bedouin Lifestyle Camp, two day one night with full board cost JD 65 per person. The tour starts at 10am and finished at 7pm. The guide will cook lunch in the desert, and the buffet in the camp site is nice. Tent is good and there is toilet and shower available. In general good service.
  • Petra: Suggest to go as early as possible, groups usually arrive at around 8:30am. We were there from 8:30am to 6pm all the way by walking without taking donkey or horses. The sun light is great in the morning in Treasury, so when we arrived the Royal Tombs, we went to Al-Khubtha Trail first to see the good view of Treasury, then walked to Monastery and came back. Don’t forget to bring your lunch and a lot of water! Water inside is at least 3 times more expensive. Passport might be needed when you enter.
  • Stamp: JD 0.9
  • In Jordan, everything is much more expensive than we expected, especially taxi since they don’t have petrol in the country and cost them 100k JD for the license. It’s safe in general but we felt the people are not so friendly, maybe because they are in Ramadan or we simply was not lucky to meet some.

2 thoughts on “死海+佩特拉古城+沙漠=約旦三個願望一次滿足之旅 Dead Sea+Petra+Desert = Jordan the dream come true trip

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