Khiva – the fading city 烏茲別克不再繁華的城市 希瓦

希瓦是我們在烏茲別克的最後一站,從布哈拉坐 share taxi 到希瓦需要7個小時車程。因為我們沒有包車,所以另花了一小時去載其他的當地乘客。一開始的路段顛簸不平讓我好擔心未來的七小時,好險一小時後路就很平坦,司機也瞬間開始飆車,據說中國正在協助建造馬路,所以我們路上有看到施工的狀況。司機全程以不變的速度吃了六小時的瓜子,其他兩位乘客則是很安靜。路上停了兩次上廁所,都意外的很乾淨,還提供了疑似再生紙的超硬衛生紙給我。另外停了一次吃東西,但是那裡的廁所居然是架高的木板簡單搭建的,沒有門而且在大馬路旁邊,完全是給路過的車子和對面吃飯的人們看屁股。我只好找一個遠一點的小樹叢解放了!! 就算是在烏茲別克境內開車,還是經過很多警察的檢查哨,在這裡的警察非常有威嚴,到處都可以看到警察,而且不可以隨便拍他們喔!

Khiva is our last destination in Uzbekistan. It was a tough journey from Bukhara by shared taxi, because it takes 7 hours to drive, and we had to pick up another two local people who shared the taxi with us. Luckily the road is flat after the bumpy ride for an hour. The bathroom we stop by were surprisingly clean, I only have to use the “wild toilet” once because the real toilet in lunch place is up in the simple wooden structure whereby everyone can see you! Even we were driving inside the country, we still pass by a few police stop to check our passport, and lonely planet warns reader to avoid police because they might give you trouble, and don’t take picture of the police!!

我們這次住的民宿就位在希瓦西城門的外面,非常方便。來這裡的遊客主要都是參觀舊城內的建築。過去曾經被占領者破壞的古蹟都在UNESCO的幫助下重建, 所以這些古建築多半和飯店、餐廳或博物館結合。來到西城門的右側可以看到數學家花拉子米 (Al Xorazmily) 的雕像,他是代數學的奠基者。

Our guest house is just outside of Khiva castle west gate. The main tourist sites are mostly inside the castle. This place was recovered with the help from Unesco due to the massive destruction by the ruler previously. That’s why most of the old buildings are combined with hotels, restaurants and museums. Just outside the west gate on the right side, you can see the mathematician called Al Xorazmily who is the founder of algebra.

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我們住的民宿 Lali-Opa,便宜又方便 Our hostel is very convenient and cheap

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西城門入口 West Gate Entrance

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城牆 The Wall of the castle

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數學家 The Mathematician

進城門的右邊馬上會注意到一個肥短但色彩繽紛的宣禮塔,當地人稱他為短塔 (Kalta-Minor),它原本應是中亞最高的建築,但阿敏汗王過世後,繼位者不願再繼續興建,才會有今天這個可愛的短塔。這也是我在城內最喜歡的建築! 短塔的旁邊有一棟城內最大的經學院,叫做阿敏汗經學院 (Muhammad Amin-Khan Madrasah),裡面的研經室現在被改成飯店的房間了,如果有興趣也可以入住這間現在稱為東方之星的旅館喔!

After entering the gate, immediately I saw this fat, short but colorful minaret called Kalta-Minor (means short tower). It was supposed to be the highest building in Central Asia. However, after the king Muhammad Amin-Khan was dead, the successor didn’t want to continue building, thus we can see this cute tower today and this is my favorite building. Next to the tower is the biggest Madrasah in the castle which is called Muhammad Amin-Khan Madrasah. The study rooms inside are now converted into the rooms of a hotel.

依舊在主要道路上的右側有一個小小的入口不能錯過,這是城內主要的清真寺—主麻清真寺 Djuma mosque。裡面是由212根木柱撐起來的,每個木柱都是不同的雕塑圖案,讓人得以一窺這裡的木雕技術。雖然沒有很多陽光透進,但安靜祥和的氣氛,比起外面炙熱的天氣,讓人想在這裡多待一會,坐著想像過去禱告的盛況。

Continue walking on the main road, on the right side there is a small entrance where you should not miss. This is the main mosque in the castle called Djuma Mosque. Inside you can see that the building is supported by only 212 wooden pillar with different decoration! It is a bit dark but calm to sit down for a while, and imagine the old times where people prayed here.

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進城門的左方不遠處可以看到舊王宮(Kunya – Ark),這裡有過去接待貴賓的會客室、寢宮、軍械庫、馬廄等等。尤其在賓客接待區可以看到非常美麗繽紛的藍白陶瓷牆壁裝飾,每一塊都不一樣,搭配木雕的樑柱,而內部則是簡單的白色裝潢。在這裡花5000 som 可以登上瞭望台,將希瓦的景觀和所有美麗的宣禮塔都收入眼簾。看著日落,想著這個地方過去的輝煌和現在只剩下遊客和商店的冷清,讓人不勝唏噓。

On the left side of the west gate situated the must visit old palace called Kunya Ark. You get to see the old guest meeting room of the king, bedrooms, weapon room and stables… etc. The guest room is especially beautiful with the decoration of blue and white on the wall and also the wooden carved pillar. Inside the meeting room is simply white wall. You can spend 5000 som to climb up to the watch tower, and all the views of the castle and khiva will be under your eye sights. It is a great place to watch the sunset. Thinking of the old golden times and now the empty castle with only tourists and shops. What a pity!

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Quick Tips:

  • 在西城門可以購買兩日券(35,000 som),可以參觀所有的博物館和進入大部分的景點,除了陵寢和登塔需要另外收費。我們上去的瞭望台是5,000 som。
  • 東城門旁邊有一個學院,每晚七點有傳統音樂表演半小時,但如果沒有很多遊客就不會表演。
  • 東城門旁有一間很好吃的餐廳Khorezm Art,在地下室,我們點的東西都很好吃! 價錢稍微貴一點。
  • 瞭望台建議在傍晚時爬上去,可以看日落。
  • 近郊有一個堡壘 Fortress 需要叫車前往,我們民宿有人去,但我們沒去。
  • 建議停留天數: 2天 (大概一天就可以逛完城內的景點)
  • 推薦住宿: Lali Opa Guest House (網路是我們在烏茲別克最快的, 早餐有熱食超好吃, 老闆是我我們遇到唯一知道台灣的當地人唷!)
  • 參考書籍: lonely planet, 中亞之心 烏茲別克: 走在絲路的十字路口
  • You can buy 2 day ticket (35,000 som) which allows you to visit all museums and most of the sites, except the mausoleum and view points. The watch tower we went to is 5,000 som.
  • There is a madrassah next to the east gate which have traditional music and dance show for half an hour, but it will only perform when there are enough people.
  • There is a nice restaurant called Khorezm Art, which is just next to the dance performance place.
  • I would suggest to climb up to the watch tower at around sunset time.
  • There is another fortress near Khiva but need to go via taxi which we didn’t go.
  • Suggested time to stay in Khiva: 2 days
  • Suggested guest house: Lali-Opa Guest house (the internet there is the fastest among my stay in Uzbekistan! breakfast is also great especially the hot dishes. He is the only person we met who know where is Taiwan!)
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傳統音樂表演 Traditional Show

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The restaurant I recommended 我推薦的餐廳

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展示牆磚的博物館

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展示絲綢的博物館

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展示工藝的博物館

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意外逛到的城門外市場

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